featherynscale: Schmendrick the magician from The Last Unicorn (Default)
[personal profile] featherynscale
Corsetry. I popped open the pattern for the corset I'm allegedly going to make, and feel like I'm hitting a snag already. The corset front is about 12 3/4" long. My *underbust* corset is about 11 3/4" long. I'm not at all clear how that extra inch is going to cover my nipples. I'm guessing it isn't. So, mockup it is. Can you lengthen a corset pattern? I don't know. If you did, how much more length can you get out of it without using longer boning? This is a critically important question in my world right now, since I've already bought all the bones I was supposed to need. *sigh* Maybe I could make the corset as it is, and then add a little ruffle to the top. Or wear pasties. Actually, pasties are probably a good idea anyway.

Also, spiral steel boning - how can those things possibly be sturdy enough to make serious corsetry happen? Spiral bones aren't that much more stable than cable ties. Granted, I'm not looking for huge reduction, the character I'm doing is described variously as "plump" and "fleshy", but still, I'd like to be a tad less lumpy going into the experience. *more sigh*

Super-discouraged/intimidated, and I haven't even cut the pattern pieces yet.

Date: 2011-03-15 04:00 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] celticwhistlin.livejournal.com
I can offer nothing but my statements of "Good luck on ya."

I have no clue when it comes to sewing at all.

Date: 2011-03-15 04:39 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sherwood21.livejournal.com
I have made only one corset, and it was a Butterick or McCalls pattern. I think the pattern pieces all had a line that marked the waist, which is where I cut it to lengthen it - I just did a straight line to connect the two pieces (of each pattern piece), and made each piece about two inches longer.

Umm, you will need to use longer boning. There's no way around that one. You might be able to still use some of them, just on different seams than you originally planned. I've got some flat steels on hand - if you want to get together, we can see if anything I've got is long enough to use, and you can have it. I think I still have some 14" ... I also have some 17 & 1/2" that I kinda got on accident ... :D

Spiral bones are awesome for going around curved seams - I know a girl who does spirals at the back closure of all her corsets because she has a tiny waist and a very curvy butt. I'd suggest using spirals on the sides, at the very edge to stabilize the grommets if you need it to be curvy, and flat steels on the front and back.

If it's not in any way an option to lengthen it, then I'd suggest fitting it to your bust and working your way down on the fit. (If you don't want to show your stomach, then you could make a ruffle or something to go on the bottom of it too) Otherwise, you might as well just make another underbust. Your idea about putting a ruffle at the top is a good one - I'd probably interface the crap out of it, and run a horsehair braid at the top for stability.

Good luck, and I'm sorry you have to wrassle with it. Patterns are not designed for tall peoples.

Date: 2011-03-15 02:10 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] featherynscale.livejournal.com
Yeah, the worst of it is, I'm not even tall. I'm 5'4". This corset is just really short. It doesn't look that short on the package, it looks like it hits the model just over the centerline of her bust. But maybe she's a midget with an A-cup chest.

I think I can maybe get away with a set of un-boned panels on the top, just to get another inch or so out of it. I don't really need to pull in my boobs so much as support them on the bottom and cover them enough to be street-legal.

Or, your idea of making it fit at the top and wearing it higher may work, too. I was hoping to get a waist out of the deal, but maybe I won't. Or I could order in some longer flat bones and use the longest of the spiral ones I have for the shorter bits. (The pattern doesn't even tell you which bones go where - I hope it will be obvious.

Anyway, thank you for listening and giving advice.

Date: 2011-03-15 02:50 pm (UTC)
ext_3038: Red Panda with the captain "Oh Hai!" (Default)
From: [identity profile] triadruid.livejournal.com
Yeah, I was thinking you could either shift all the current bones around a bit, or poll your corset-making friends for leftover boning to make up the difference.

Date: 2011-03-15 05:52 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sherwood21.livejournal.com
I put a bone on each seam, and that worked pretty well for me. I think I picked that up from [livejournal.com profile] nataliesee, who has made lots of corsets and is fairly brilliant at it, so you might hit her up for advice as well.

It's tough to tell without looking at the pattern how it's going to fit and where, so I think you're right to make a mock-up - even an unboned one will tell you a lot about where it needs changes and where it works.

Date: 2011-03-15 05:42 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] retro-sass.livejournal.com
I'm looking into making my first corset, and I'm very long torso'd. (6'1) If you still have the 17-1/2 flat steels unused at that time, I may inquire if I can buy them off of you, because I definitely am going for a longer merry widow look.

Date: 2011-03-15 05:50 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sherwood21.livejournal.com
Of course! Frankly, you can probably bribe me with cookies or something - if they can be used, that's what I'd rather see. :)

Date: 2011-03-15 07:10 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] fiona-fawkes.livejournal.com
Pattern can totally be lengthened. Have done it and can help. Of you need to go too much longer you'll possibly need a longer busk. I use spiral boning on either side of and down the middle of the side piece only. It's okay to go spiral all over, but I feel more secure with the quarter inch European bones. I over-buy on boning so that I have extra. Could probably trade you for the lengths you need. You're welcome to come up anytime and we can work on modifying the pattern or whatever you need help with.

Date: 2011-03-16 03:46 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] auraseer.livejournal.com
Coincidence! I looked through a bunch of corset patterns this afternoon. It seems that the lengths can vary a lot depending on where the bottom edge is. If the underbust one is an inch shorter but comes two inches further down on the hips, then its top edge is three inches lower, rather than one inch as you'd have assumed.

I guess my point is, make a mockup and see how high it rises, before you go altering the pattern much.

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